Showing posts with label Murfreesboro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Murfreesboro. Show all posts

Monday, September 23, 2024

Tales from the road: A vanishing act at Stones River battlefield

Stan Hutson stands on site of Day 1 fighting -- Dec. 31, 1862 -- being prepped for development.

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Whenever feeling a need for a downer, I make a beeline on the interstate from Nashville to Murfreesboro, where city planners give developers free rein to carve up hallowed ground for another strip center, apartment complex or housing development. Think of it as as the Fredericksburg, Va., of the Western Theater.

“Park over there,” my friend Stan directs Civil War travel pal/driver Jack, who once hypnotized me at dawn at Fort Granger in Franklin, Tenn. He pulls off into a gravel parking area of a construction site.

Roughly a half-mile behind us is core Stones River battlefield of the national military park, which includes the infamous Slaughter Pen. In front of us, several hundred yards from a Rooms To Go furniture store and a Whataburger, we spot construction equipment and a vast, mostly barren scene reminiscent of the surface of the moon. In the far distance stand two mountains of dirt.

“I guarantee you’d find a cannon ball or two in there,” says Stan, who hunts for relics on private property (with permission) on the battlefield in his spare time. To our right, near an earthmover, he unearthed 500 percussion caps, evidence of the intense fighting on this hallowed ground on Dec. 31, 1862 — Day 1 of the Battle of Stones River.

Going, going ... Day 1 Stones River battlefield

Every day, pitiless developers carve up more of this unheralded battlefield, where nearly 25,000 Americans became casualties over three days. In a few months, the moon-like scene before us will be occupied by more urban schlock, perhaps including Murfreesboro’s 507th McDonald’s, 52nd Circle K or 21st Wendy’s.

Only a fraction of this vast battlefield is part of the national military park. For the rest, it’s open season. History is not winning this battle. From the Whataburger parking lot, we get a Confederate soldier’s view of this vanishing battlefield.

Stan Hutson holds a battle map on the Day 3
field (Jan. 2, 1863), now a residential housing
development.
“I found a bunch of of bullets over by those Porta Potties,” Stan says, pointing roughly 20 yards away.

After lunch at Buster’s bar — Jack paid, so it tasted much better than regular grub — we venture to scene of fighting on Day 3 of the Battle of Stones River. What once a was soybean field is now being prepped for a tony residential housing development. To our left, on ground where soldiers clashed on Jan. 2, 1863, stands a mega-mansion under construction.

“Dream Acres Pool Company,” reads the sign in the front yard.

“This,” Stan says, holding a battle map, “is the heart of the Day 3 battlefield.” He speculates Confederate artillery fired from a tree line in the far distance, near Sinking Creek.

My gawd, what’s happening to the Stones River battlefield? Blink and the rest of it soon may be gone.

A McMansion on Day 3 Stones River hallowed ground
Above and below: Drone views of Day 3 Stones River battlefield.

Sunday, December 26, 2021

Hallowed ground to housing: A visit to Stones River battlefield

ABOVE: On Jan. 2, 1863, Confederates advanced under fire across this ground—today it's prepped
 for residential housing. Stan Hutson, my guide, holds maps from
Blue & Gray magazine that detail
 the action here. BELOW: A farm field, also hallowed ground, is adjacent 
to the
 nascent housing development. (CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE.)

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The National Park Service oversees roughly 700 acres at the Stones River (Tenn.) National Battlefield, a small fraction of the ground where 25,000 soldiers became casualties from Dec. 31, 1862-Jan. 2, 1863. With the blessing of local politicians, ravenous developers have carved up much of the rest. 

Real conversation this morning with an NPS employee behind the desk at the visitors' center:

Me: "Can you tell me where the 45th Mississippi fought?"

NPS employee, after a minute or two studying maps: "They were near the Baskin-Robbins, Sam's Club and Walmart."

Ugh.

To see the roughly 2,500 acres of battlefield beyond the national park, you need patience, a great guide, a good attitude and a world-class imagination. Maps, too. Really good ones.

Hallowed ground to housing: The site of fighting on Jan. 2, 1863, is gone for good.

On Sunday, friend Stan Hutson—whose knowledge and love for the battlefield are unrivaled—showed me a seldom-visited site where Confederate soldiers advanced under fire near Sinking Creek on Jan. 2, 1863. (You may remember Hutson from this column I wrote about the vanishing Stones River battlefield for Civil War Times magazine, this blog post on Fortress Rosecrans and this post on his remarkable finds on a soon-to-be-paved over section of the field.)

The Confederates' right advanced near Sinking Creek
on Jan. 2, 1863. Today it winds through residential
neighborhoods.
To get there, Hutson drives through a neighborhood of circa-1980s ranch houses to a construction site. Behind us this overcast morning, we spot mountains of topsoil, man-made craters, piles of rocks, huge pipes and the outlines of streets—all preparations for yet another residential housing development. In the near distance, we eye a 30-acre farm field—this oasis in the middle of suburbia is barren today, but the farmer has planted it with soybeans and other crops in the past. 
 
"That's as close as we'll probably get to seeing the battlefield as it looked on Jan. 2, 1863," Hutson tells me. He points out on a Blue & Gray magazine map the Confederate regiments who wheeled across this ground to attack the U.S. Army positioned behind us.

Click to enlarge Blue & Gray magazine map
  of fighting in this area.
41st Alabama, 14th Louisiana, 40th North Carolina, 20th Tennessee, the Orphan Brigade ... and more.

In this nascent development, relic hunters have uncovered evidence of the fighting—bullets (including a French pattern .69 caliber "Triangle Base" round like this), artillery shell fragments and more. I wonder what battle artifacts could be recovered in the mountains of topsoil.

In late 2020, the American Battlefield Trust saved 42 acres nearby—a site originally destined for industrial development. That ground where little to no fighting occurred could become a park. No organization or individuals stepped up to save the site of the housing development—ground where significant action occurred.

Is it too late to save the farm field? 

On Jan. 2, 1863, the Orphan Brigade advanced here and down a hill toward McFadden's Ford
— today the ground is in a residential neighborhood.   
Under a modern bridge, Stones River National Battlefield tourists can see the site of McFadden's Ford,
where the
Orphan Brigade was mauled by U.S. Army artillery. 
In the right distance,
 a modern neighborhood covers hallowed ground. 


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Thursday, December 17, 2020

From Antietam to Wartrace: My favorite photos of 2020

BRENTWOOD, TENN.: A wilted rose left on a small, weather-worn gravestone
 in a small slave cemetery in a road median.
(READ MORE | CLICK ON ALL IMAGES TO ENLARGE.)


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What a crazy year ...

In Tennessee alone, I met a woman named "Blossom" at the tavern where Patrick Cleburne might have hung out in Wartrace, patted a dog named "River" at 20th Tennessee Colonel Bill Shy's grave in Franklin, and peered into a church in Denmark where Confederate soldiers hid under hoop skirts.

A poignant note left at a slave cemetery.
But my most memorable visit was to a slave cemetery in the median of a busy road in Brentwood, Tenn. On a memorial there, a visitor left this note: 

"Thank you. I so very hope someone thanked you during your life here. You could not have imagined so many wonderful things we have today because of your labors, and how much farther we have to grow."

There were road trips to Antietam, Chickamauga, Corinth, Miss.; Crampton's and Fox's gaps in Maryland, Gettysburg, Perryville, Ky.; Port Republic and Cross Keys in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, and for the first time, Brice's Cross Roads (Miss.), Mill Springs (Ky.) and Britton's Lane, Tenn. And I visited the grave in Glade Spring, Va., of the general with the fabulous nickname, "Grumble" Jones. Closer to home, I traveled to Franklin, Shiloh, Stones River, and Lookout Mountain. And, of course, many Nashville battlefield sites were only a bike ride away.
 
Besides my University of Alabama cap and a smile, I always traveled with my iPhone, eager to document the journeys. Here are some of my favorite photos from 2020. Hope you enjoyed riding "shotgun."

Remember: Life, enjoy the journey.

Always...

ANTIETAM, MD.: A misty early morning at Bloody Lane.
FRANKLIN, TENN.: A dog named "River" at grave of 20th Tennessee Colonel Bill Shy.
PERRYVILLE, KY.: The lone witness tree remaining on the battlefield.
GETTYSBURG: 27th Connecticut monument in The Wheatfield.
BRENTWOOD, TENN.: Abandoned antebellum farmhouse of slaveholding family.
(READ/SEE MORE.)
PERRYVILLE, Ky.: View advancing Confederates had on Henry Bottom's farm.
(READ/SEE MORE.)
ANTIETAM: An epic carved eagle atop New York monument.
ANTIETAM, MD.: Reenactors in the Bloody Cornfield.
SHILOH, TENN.: Battlefield marker denoting burial location for 28th Illinois fallen 
atop ancient Indian mound. The dead were later moved to Shiloh National Cemetery.
BRENTWOOD, TENN: A mural depicting in a tony subdivision depicting the capture
of Confederate Colonel Edmund Rucker on Dec. 16, 1864. 
CHICKAMAUGA, GA.: Michigan monument.
MILL SPRING, KY.: Coins left at Confederate mass grave. (READ MORE.)
NASHVILLE, TENN.: A massive battlefield witness tree, toppled in a storm, and my
 brother-in-law/bike riding pal, Nels Jensen. (SEE/READ MORE.)
BRENTWOOD, TENN.: Locked door of slave cabin. (READ/SEE MORE.)
FRANKLIN, TENN.: Confederate monument in the town square. 
CHICKAMAUGA, Ga.: Bullets in bas-relief on an Ohio monument.
CHICKAMAUGA, GA.: 125th Ohio monument on Snodgrass Hill. 
GETTYSBURG: Union General Philip Kearney, killed at Chantilly (Va.) on Sept. 1, 1862,
 depicted in bronze on a New Jersey monument.
MURFEEESBORO, TENN.: Shadow play with relic hunter Stan Hutson
at Lunette Negley at Fortress Rosecrans site. (READ MORE.)
BURKITTSVILLE, MD.: Union General William Franklin's headquarters. (SEE MORE.)
NASHVILLE: Shy's Hill, taken by the Federals on Dec. 16, 1864.
BRICE'S CROSS ROADS (Miss.): A grave in a cemetery overrun during the battle.
(READ MORE.)


-- My favorite photos of 2017, 2018 and 2019.
-- Have something to add (or correct) in this post? Email me here.

Friday, October 30, 2020

Stones River: Hell's Half Acre, Hazen Brigade monument


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As I wrote for Civil War Times, much of the Stones River battlefield sadly has been lost to development. Here's a sliver of the field that survives. Enjoy seven minutes I spent at Hell's Half Acre and the Hazen Brigade monument, the oldest Civil War monument still standing in its original battlefield location.

Friday, January 31, 2020

'If we don't save it, it's gone': A relic hunt at Lunette Negley

A musket ball found at the site of Lunette Negley in Murfreesboro, Tenn.
(CLICK ON ALL IMAGES TO ENLARGE.)
PANORAMA: Developers have claimed the site of Lunette Negley.
(Click at upper right for full-screen experience.)

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On a brisk, windy afternoon, the 21st century batters the 19th in another unequal fight in Murfreesboro, Tenn.

Bulldozers and other earth movers grunt as they carve up and pound ground on the site of Lunette Negley at Fortress Rosecrans, the largest earthen fort of the Civil War. Near the construction zone, traffic whooshes by on a busy four-lane road. In the distance, a huge crane hovers next to the skeletal frame of a high-rise.

Meanwhile, armed with metal detectors, history buffs Stan Hutson and David Jones aim to recover pieces of the past before the Civil War site is lost forever. Wearing a gray hoodie, blue jeans and work boots, Hutson sweeps his machine across the mostly barren ground. Clad in a light blue, long-sleeve shirt and camouflage pants, Jones pokes at the soil with a shovel. Twenty or so yards away, a mound of earth is all that remains of Lunette Negley’s once-imposing walls.

This isn’t the friends’ first relic hunt here. At the remains of a war-time fire pit, Hutson has found pieces of a mangled U.S. Federal cartridge box plate, a dozen Yankee eagle buttons, shards of period glass from an 1860 Drakes Plantation X Bitters bottle – even cow bones and hog tusks. Elsewhere on the well-hunted site, they have discovered Williams cleaner bullets, a Schenkl artillery shell fragment, a period watch cap, a bayonet, a butt plate to Enfield musket, and a piece of a harmonica, among other artifacts.

“If we don’t save it, it’s gone,” Hutson says of the finds.

Stan Hutson (left) and David Jones hunting the former site of  Lunette Negley.
All that remains of one of Lunette Negley's once-imposing walls.

Spurred by William Rosecrans, the Union Army began building the fort in the aftermath of the Battle of Stones River, fought near Murfreesboro Dec. 31, 1862-Jan. 2, 1863. The 42-year-old general considered the site ideal for stockpiling supplies for campaigns or as a strong fallback position in case the Federals were forced to retreat.

Union Major General William Rosecrans
(Library of Congress)
Fortress Rosecrans included eight lunettes, four redoubts, steam-powered sawmills, quartermaster depots, warehouses, magazines, and quarters for thousands of soldiers. Its 10- to 15-foot earthen walls were fronted by a 10-foot ditch filled with sharpened stakes. The Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad line ran through the fort, which fed a ravenous Union Army war machine for its advances on Chattanooga in 1863, on Atlanta in 1864, and for William Sherman’s March to the Sea.

“Truly astounding,” wrote a contemporary observer about the skill and labor used to build Fortress Rosecrans. Among the thousands of construction workers who created the marvel were contrabands and soldiers in the Pioneer Brigade, an elite Michigan unit.

“Astonishing,” The National Tribune, a newspaper for Civil War veterans, called the fort in 1906, “… equal in magnitude and strength to those which defend great cities in Europe.”

In mushrooming Murfreesboro, where developers have wiped out hundreds of acres of Stones River battlefield outside the national park, the National Park Service protects only small slivers of what remains of Fortress Rosecrans.

The fort was abandoned soon after war; in recent years, the Lunette Negley site was a city dump, says Jones, a lifelong area resident. In 2019, the City of Murfreesboro opened a new fire department on the grounds. Across Medical City Parkway, a strip mall opened.

And now, sadly, we witness the coup de grace of what little remains.

A piece of a hoe discovered eight inches below the surface.
Brick from a fire pit.
Trigger guard, perhaps for an Austrian Lorenz musket like the one below.

Beep, beep, beep … beeeeeep, beeeeeep!”

Minutes into his relic hunt, the sound from Hutson’s Fisher F75 detector changes tone, an indication of metal in the deep-brown earth. He scoops out about two inches of soil with his shovel, reaches down, and picks up an unusually shaped object roughly 6 ½ inches long.

At the Murfreesboro, Tenn., construction site.
relic hunter Stan Hutson found a trigger guard
for a musket, perhaps part of
an Austrian Lorenz (above).
“I cannot believe this. Holy cow!” Hutson says. Minutes later, he’s still on a relic hunter high: “I’m gonna get cotton mouth.”

The 19th century has finally let go of a trigger guard for a musket, perhaps an Austrian Lorenz, used by soldiers on both sides in the Western Theater. Maybe the weapon belonged to a soldier who served under 75th Illinois Captain David M. Roberts, who commanded a battery at Lunette Negley. The officer’s artillery included two 6-pounders, a 3-inch gun, a 6-pounder James rifle field gun, and an 8-inch siege howitzer. With such impressive weaponry, the imposing fort was never seriously threatened by the enemy.

A close examination of the ground reveals an interesting mosaic: soil, stone, shards of opaque glass, period nails, and small porcelain chips from dishes. Some, if not all those artifacts, are from the Civil War era.

At the Lunette Negley fire pit site, Stan Hutson holds a large hook, perhaps used for cooking by soldiers.
A chunk of earth shows evidence of its use as a fire pit.

Less than a year ago, Jones found on the site a .54-caliber bullet mold, probably Confederate. “It's like Christmas every time I dig,” he says. “You don’t know what you’re going to get when you dig it up.” The day before the Battle of Stones River, Johnny Rebs camped on the ground before their assault on the Round Forest. Nearby, Lt. General Leonidas Polk, a Confederate corps commander, made his headquarters in the James house, which was destroyed by arson in 2003.

A porcelain button found on the surface.
Probing at the ground after a hit on his metal detector, Hutson uncovers another piece of metal. “What do you think this is?” he asks Jones. “A door handle?” He tosses it on a mound of dirt pushed aside by the construction crew. On the surface, Jones picks up a porcelain button, probably from a soldier’s blouse. Later, he uncovers a .69-caliber round ball.

At the remains of the fire pit, Hutson points out tell-tale burn marks in the soil from a log as well as ash. He finds a large, iron hook and speculates it was used by soldiers to hold a pot for cooking. Scattered about are 19th-century nails, bolts and bricks. He uncovers a piece of glass. “That probably hasn’t seen the light of day in 157 years,” he says, marveling at the mundane piece of history. Fifteen minutes later, he uncovers a piece of a hoe eight inches deep.

About an hour before dusk, diggers’ shadows dance on a bank of soil richly illuminated by the sun. Another relic hunt is nearly over. Time is rapidly running out, too, for another Civil War site in Murfreesboro, Tenn.

Shadow play: A journalist and a digger go about their work.

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SOURCES

-- The National Tribune, July 12, 1906.
-- The Summit County Beacon, Akron, Ohio, Oct. 15, 1863.