Tales from the road: Adventures in Old Johnsonville with Mrs. B

A rare selfie with Mrs. B at a Civil War site.

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On Sunday afternoon, following a short but interesting visit to the Patsy Cline plane crash site, I hoodwinked Mrs. B into a trip to Johnsonsville (Tenn.) State Historic Park. On Nov. 4-5, 1864, Nathan Bedford Forrest — “The Wizard of the Saddle” — opened up with his cannons from the opposite side of the Tennessee River on the U.S. Army depot in Johnsonville, leading to the destruction of hundreds of thousands of dollars’ worth of supplies.

Nathan Bedford Forrest

U.S. Army soldiers, fearing the Rebs would cross the river and capture supplies, transport boats, steamboats and the like, set fire to most of the goods. What an inferno that must have been.

Bring your imagination to Old Johnsonville: When the Tennessee Valley Authority dammed the Tennessee River in the 1940s, creating vast Kentucky Lake, the place disappeared for good.

While Mrs. B sat in the air-conditioned comfort of our car, I explored the grounds, inspected replica soldier quarters, read every historical marker in sight, wondered what the two dudes by the lake were catching and tried to envision where “The Wizard” placed his guns. (Now under water, I’m told.) 

Energized, I somehow coaxed Mrs. B from the car for a selfie by a cannon. We were about the only people in the park on this steamy day, so naturally both of us had dark thoughts. (We watch too many episodes of  Dateline.)

A stop at the Upper Redoubt, a fort constructed after the battle by the 12th and 13th U.S. Colored Troops, served as the pièce de résistance of my self-guided tour.

“You’re going to go up there?” Mrs. B said somewhat incredulously while staring at a steep hillside.

Just say no to relic hunting here.

OMG! We’ve been married for 31 years! Don’t you know that, of course, I’m going to go “up there”?

As excited as a puppy with a chew toy, I walked the grounds of the fort.

“I’m not going there,” Mrs. B said later. “Could be bugs and poison ivy.”

Whatever.

The stay at Johnsonville State Historic Park culminated with a brief visit with a friendly docent at the visitors’ center. After I told him about Mrs. B relaxing in the air-conditioned comfort of our car a mere 15 yards away, he suggested she come inside and watch the Johnsonville movie. I didn’t think that was a good idea.

My stay ended there following a discussion about Lynyrd Skynyrd.

Let’s keep history alive.

• For many more stories like this, consider purchasing my recently released book, A Civil War Road Trip Of Lifetime. Email me at jbankstx@comcast.net for details about how to get an autographed copy.

Above and below: Impressive earthworks at the Upper Redoubt.