Tales from the road: Peanut soup but no 'ghost cats' in Virginia

Historical marker in front of The Wayside Inn in Middletown, Va.

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What a grand overnight stay at The Wayside Inn & Larrick’s Tavern in the heart of history-rich Middletown, Va.

Quick recap: During a tour of the place by Piers — the inn’s excellent and enthusiastic communications director — he pointed out a historical marker in front of the inn that references General Nathaniel “Bobbin Boy” Banks.

Nathaniel Banks

“We are NOT related,” I announced to my fellow tour attendees, mostly from a septuagenarian motorcycle club called the Voyagers. (Banks was a lousy Civil War commander.) The bikers briefly chuckled and then looked at me the way your dog might when you blow a shrill whistle.

At dinner Thursday night at the tavern, I met two gentlemen from Europe. Here’s a complete transcript of our convo:

“Where are you from?”

“Sweden.”

“Welcome.”

Plus, I struck up a conversation with a delightful couple — shout-out to Sheri and Hugh! — from California dining at the table next to me. They offered me some of their yummy-looking peanut soup (I respectfully passed) and bought a copy of my book (A Civil Road Trip Of A Lifetime), cementing what should become an eternal friendship.

By the way, Sheri and Hugh — who told me of their deep respect for journalism — sat next to the ancient (circa 1740) and deep (45 feet) town well. (Earlier, our tour group peered into the mysterious well.)

Guests peer into the ancient well at The Wayside Inn & Larrick's Tavern.

A view of the well through Plexiglass.

Overnight, I slept in the Jubal Early Room at the reputedly haunted inn. I heard no tramping of Civil War soldiers’ boots and didn’t see those “ghost cats” that allegedly walk between Room No. 2 — the room where “Little Phil” Sheridan supposedly stayed — and Room No. 1, the “Old Jube” room. And, no, the ghost of General Early didn’t torment me with any Lost Cause musings. (I did, however, hide my wallet inside the case for my drone — you know, just in case any spirits came looking.)

Early this morning, I spied strange flashes of light dancing on my wall. (Probably should be title of my autobiography.) But I figured they were merely the nasty effects of those CBD gummies I take to sleep.

A sketch created during the war by James E. Taylor of Rebel General Jubal Early in the
room where I slept at The Wayside Inn.